Thursday 27 October 2022

Benmore Botanic Garden, Cowal Peninsula, Argyll and Bute

Benmore Botanic Garden (click / tap to enlarge)

Benmore Botanic Garden on the Cowal Peninsula is a 120 acre mountainside garden belonging to the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh (RBGE). The garden boasts a world-famous collection of plants with distinct hillside areas representing Japan, Bhutan, Chile and Tasmania. Visiting these areas makes you feel like you're actually on a hillside in one of these countries! Other highlights include an avenue of Giant Redwood trees that are amongst the oldest in Europe and a fine Victorian Fernery. The garden is also famous for its several thousand rhododendrons that explode into a riot of colour in spring / early summer. 

Officially, the gardens are open daily from 1 March - 31 October, 10am - 5pm. Admission is currently £8 with gift aid (£7 concessions, children 15 yrs and under are free). There's a large free car park, so parking shouldn't be an issue. The main visitor centre area includes toilet facilities and also a great little outdoor café. The café has dog friendly outdoor seating and you can also get water for the dogs there.

Except for the Fernery, the whole garden is dog friendly, though dogs should be kept on a short lead at all times. NB the RBGE website mentions only assistance dogs being allowed but as of our visit last month and as per signage at the garden itself, all dogs ARE permitted, provided they are kept on a short lead.

Outside of the advertised opening dates, the gardens are "officially" closed but visitors are still allowed and admission is not charged. The main entrance, café and visitor facilities are all closed but the garden itself is generally always open. Just walk up the private road over the river on the west side of the car park, follow the road as it bends right and you'll come to the gate for the gardens a short way down on the left hand side. Be aware that there is a programme of works undertaken during the winter months so please be alert to and obey, any warning signs in place.

We had a great time visiting the garden and spent quite a few hours wandering around. I've not created a route to follow as that would be too prescriptive and would detract from the joy of wandering around and exploring. You'll find a board with a map of the park in front of the main entrance and I've also included a photo of it below. If you visit in season, you'll also get a map included with the admission fee.

All information is current of our last visit in September 2022. All images can be clicked / tapped to enlarge them. You can find more information about the garden from the official website here. Click here for link to the garden's location on Google Maps.

You'll find this map of the gardens in the car park just outside the visitor centre (click/tap to enlarge)

Here are some more photos from our last visit:

The path from the visitor centre crosses over a bridge across the attractive River Eachaig

Jasper at the Japanese planted area near the pond

Tommy looking like he's taking his posing responsibilities very seriously!

Puck's Hut with courtyard tower in the distance

The pond and Dolphin Fountain. The Japanese trees are strikingly reflected in the water.

The reflections in the water make this scene reminiscent of a Monet painting

The avenue of Giant Redwood trees

A variety of towering trees are found throughout the garden

View out towards Holy Loch taken from the path to the viewpoint shelter

A young Monkey Puzzle Tree in the Chilean Rainforest area

The Chilean Viewpoint Refuge

Jasper and Tommy outside the Chilean Viewpoint Refuge

Chilean Shelter ("The Condor")

At the bottom of the hillside the paths wind around and cross back and forth over a stream

Looking back up at the Bhutanese Glade

Jasper in front of a column sculpture in the Bhutanese Glade

"There's something behind me isn't there?"

The Victorian Fernery and view beyond

On the way back to the visitor centre, a rainbow presented itself over the river

Friday 21 October 2022

The Braan Path, The Hermitage, Dunkeld, Tay Forest Park, Perth and Kinross

Ossian Hall and Hermitage Bridge from the top of Black Linn Falls (click/tap to enlarge)

The Hermitage was originally conceived as an 18th century pleasure ground for the Dukes of Atholl, whose winter residence was in Dunkeld. These days it's managed by the National Trust for Scotland and is still a fine place for a stroll or in this case a longer 4.5 mile circular walk.

The Hermitage itself is often busy, particularly in autumn as the trees are magnificent with the autumnal colours being especially beautiful. Beyond The Hermitage though, the walk is much quieter and affords a good opportunity for Jasper and Tommy to have a run around. Our circular walk follows the well marked "Braan Path" that takes us through The Hermitage along the River Braan, out to Rumbling Bridge and then back through woodland, forest, farmland and mostly quiet roads. Along the way, you'll see follies, waterfalls and some of the tallest trees in Britain. On our most recent visit earlier this month, there had been a lot of rain and so the rapids and waterfalls were very impressive.

There are some hazards to be aware of. Take care through The Hermitage as the river is fast flowing and dangerous. Beyond The Hermitage there are also some farmland and road sections, including two points where the A822 main road needs to be crossed and a short section along the main A9 on return to The Hermitage Car Park. We keep the dogs on-lead through all of these areas. There's a good off-lead section between the end of the farmland area and before nearing the second crossing of the A822; I'll point this out later in the article. The path condition is mostly good but the path beyond The Hermitage is muddy in a few places, especially after rain. It's not too bad to walk around the edges of the mud but I would recommend walking boots or at least footwear that you don't mind getting dirty.

Maps of the route, links to car parks on Google Maps and GPX navigation file can all be found at the end of the article. Images can be clicked/tapped to enlarge them. All information is current as of our last visit in October 2022. Additional information can be found on the National Trust for Scotland's website here.

Our walk starts at the Hermitage car park. It costs £3 to park here and you can ONLY pay with coins; so make sure you bring change! There is also a smaller and quieter free car park near the end of the route at Inver Brae.

Hermitage top car park (click/tap to enlarge)

Our route is well waymarked. Simply follow the green signs marked "Braan Path". There are also green markers with white arrows, dotted around indicating the way.

Exit the car park past the information point and turn right

Turn right at the bottom of the steps

The path continues through the lower Hermitage car park

At the end of the car park follow the path on the left hand side, through the tunnel under the attractive Hermitage Railway Viaduct

Hermitage Railway Viaduct

Beyond the viaduct, the magical scenery of The Hermitage beckons as we follow the path along the River Braan.

A photo opp for the boys!

A lovely spot to view the turbulent River Braan

The path comes to an area known as "The Cathedral" where the towering Douglas fir trees and their canopy resemble columns and a roof. You'll find a bench here, carved to resemble a Douglas fir cone. Visitors can lie down with their backs upon it and gaze up at the dizzying view above.

Tommy happy as always to strike a pose. This time on the "Douglas fir cone" bench.

We soon reach The Hermitage Bridge where we get a view of the Black Linn Falls. We'll be getting a better view of them from the main viewing area at Ossian's Hall a little further along the river.

Take a quick detour onto The Hermitage Bridge to get a view of Black Linn Falls

Black Linn Falls from The Hermitage Bridge

We come to an area where a number of follies are still in existence and are all named after Ossian. Ossian was a 3rd century bard whose work was supposedly translated from Gaelic and popularised by the 18th century Scottish poet James Macpherson. Macpherson's work was controversial however and debate ensued as to the authenticity of the sources that he claimed were Ossian's.

Ossian's Hall is a circular folly resembling a temple. It was saved from dereliction by the National Trust for Scotland in the 1950s and refurbished by them in 2007. Many of the wonderous elements of the original 18th century building are long gone but the refurbishment captures something of its spirit. It still makes for an unusual and striking entrance to the viewing platform for the falls.

Ossian's Hall

Black Linn Falls from the viewing platform of Ossian's Hall

Here's a short video of the falls from the viewing platform. There had been quite a lot of heavy rain preceding our visit, so the falls were particularly powerful.


And here's a video of the turbulent river rapids, taken just a bit further up from Ossian's Hall, at the top of the falls.


After a short distance we come to Ossian's Seat just down off the path on the left hand side and Ossian's Cave to the right hand side of the path.

Ossian's Seat with its jumble of rocks stacked against a "seat" overlooking the river

Entrance to Ossian's Cave. Inside you'll find a stone seat and a window.

So far the Braan Walk has followed the same route as The Hermitage circular walk. This is where we deviate from that, as our path now goes straight on, following the green waymarker with the white arrow. 

Tommy says, it's straight on here, following the green and white arrow marker!

The route now takes us out of The Hermitage and away from the river towards Rumbling Bridge. The path climbs a little though a forested area for approximately 0.4 miles, until we reach a waymarked left turn.

Path through the forest

Take the clearly marked left hand turn to continue following the Braan Path

The path continues to a foot bridge over the river and through a metal gate. The views open up here across the forest. A short distance further, the path meets an access road that leads to a T-junction with the road to Rumbling Bridge. These roads are generally very quiet but do watch out for occasional traffic.

Turn left at the T-junction to follow the sign-posted Braan Path to Rumbling Bridge

A short way down the road, we come to Rumbling Bridge and the "rumbling" of the river and falls is very apparent!

Rumbling Bridge. With the river in spate, you can see the spray from the water over the bridge.

Here are a few photos and a couple of short videos of the River Braan and Rumbling Bridge Falls.






Continue along the road over the bridge. A short distance up the road, turn left at the green/white waymarker.

Turn left at the waymarker here

After approximately 50 metres, you may want to check out the quick detour to a viewpoint of the river on the left hand side. After about another 40 metres you'll reach a junction. Follow the route left as per the sign.

Follow the Braan Path left as per the sign

Approximately 40 metres along, you'll find another short left hand detour to a second viewpoint of the river.

Continue along the path for another ~200 metres up to the A822 main road. The path is open to the road so take particular care here.

Take heed of the warning sign as the A822 is just at the brow of the hill here

Cross the main road with care and continue along the farm track opposite

The farmland does have warnings about livestock and dogs should remain on the lead.

Tommy chilling out at the side of the pretty tree-lined farm track

The track continues for a little over half a mile past an abandoned settlement called Tomgarrow. We then reach a sign-posted junction where we turn left.

Turn left at the sign-post marked "Inchewan and Braan Path"

Pose time as we reach a rock with Tommy's name on it!

Some nice views open up as the track crosses the farmland

A little further along, we reach a gate and a stile. The gate is not locked, so there's no need to negotiate the stile with the dogs!

Beyond the gate, the boys were able to be off the lead for about a mile. After that we once again approach the A822 main road, so be sure to get dogs back on the lead before that.

Jasper looking handsome at the side of the picturesque autumnal track...

...but he's soon off in the distance as usual!

Our route soon branches away from the track and heads right on to a waymarked footpath 

A little further on we reach a T-junction where we turn left on to a track, sign-posted "Braan Path"

The track continues through a mossy forested section

A short distance further we reach another junction and again turn left as per the sign posted Braan Path 

The track soon curves around to the right. After that we are getting close to the A822 main road and time for the dogs to be back on the lead for the remainder of the route.

The track comes out on the A822 main road here

Carefully cross the main road and continue down the path over the other side into the woods

The path continues a short distance through the woods and down to a quiet minor road.

Turn right at the road as per the sign-post for "Braan Path"

Just down the road on the left hand side we pass Inver Brae car park. This is a free car park that's smaller and quieter than The Hermitage car parks and can be used as an alternative start and end point.

Inver Brae Car Park with a deer in the distance

The route continues down the road, crossing over the Highland Main Line railway that runs from Perth to Inverness. The road continues a short way downhill to the river bridge crossing back over the Braan.
 
Bridge crossing the River Braan

Turn left over the bridge towards the village of Inver

This is the only part of the route that is not clearly waymarked, so be sure to take the left turn across the bridge to Inver rather than continuing straight on.

View of River Braan from the bridge

The route passes the entrance to Dunkeld Forest on the right. Keep straight on into the village of Inver.

Continue following the road through Inver. At the far side of Inver the road ends and we take the path up to the busy A9 main road.

Turn left to follow the path along the A9

Follow the path a short distance back to The Hermitage Car Park and the end of our route.

Route overview and surrounding area (click/tap to enlarge)

Route detail - part 1 of 5

Route detail - part 2 of 5

Route detail - part 3 of 5

Route detail - part 4 of 5

Route detail - part 5 of 5. NB asterisk denotes Inver Brae Car Park that can be used as an alternate start/end point.


Link to Inver Brae Car Park (alternate start/end location) on Google Maps


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