Thursday 11 August 2022

Pittenweem, East Neuk of Fife

View of Pittenweem from car park at start of walk (click/tap to enlarge image)

The fishing villages of the East Neuk of Fife are among our favourite places to take the dogs. The first walk I wrote about on my blog back in June, covered one of them: a walk through Crail and out along the coast. Pittenweem is another beautiful place to visit with its historic buildings, active harbour, charming wynds, art galleries, inviting eateries, sparkling coastline and lots more to attract the visitor. It is quite a popular place, so if you want to skip the worst of the crowds, I'd particularly avoid sunny days on the weekend during holiday season.

The walk takes us from the West Braes car park (free), down to the harbour, out along the coast to the edge of Anstruther Golf Course and then back through Pittenweem. You can continue on to Anstruther if you wish but personally, I'm not keen on crossing the golf course with my dogs. Also keep an eye out for Lion's Mane Jellyfish on the coastal sections of the route, as they do sometimes wash up along the East Neuk and they are dangerous to dogs. If a dog becomes ill after contact with one of them, they will need to go straight to the vet.

The complete route is 2.4 miles, the section around Pittenweem being circular with a there and back section along the coast. The coastal sections are part of the long distance Fife Coastal Path. You can find out more about that at the official website here. Toilet facilities are available at the West Braes car park and at the harbour.

You can find a Google Maps link to the car park, route maps and GPX navigation file at the end of the article. Information is current as of our last visit in July 2022. All images can be clicked / tapped to enlarge them.

Our walk starts at the West Braes car park. The West Braes area has been the subject of an ambitious re-vamp in recent years, courtesy of the community led West Braes Project and what a fantastic job they have done! The paths have been improved, the crazy golf course has been rejuvenated, the Victorian tidal pool that hasn't been in use since the 1980s, has been restored and there's an attractive picnic area to take advantage of.

There's also a huge, enclosed field next to the car park which is great for the dogs to have a run around in. It's not completely secure (particularly where there are gates), so if your dog is the escape-artist type then you might want to keep a close eye on them. On the other edge of the car park, there are lovely views down to Pittenweem and the harbour.
Having been for a run around, Tommy's having a rare moment where he is still for long enough to snap him! (click/tap to enlarge image)

Our walk starts from the far end of the car park. Take the path down to the shelter.

The shelter has been beautifully painted on all four sides to reflect it's maritime location

Take a quick detour to the right of the shelter to admire the restored tidal pool. It's a popular place on a lovely sunny day. Not suitable for dogs though but they will find some spots for a dip later on!

Continue the walk, following the coastal path to the left of the shelter

Lovely views across the Firth of Forth to Bass Rock and North Berwick Law

The path takes us down to the Pittenweem shore and the dogs take advantage of the tide being in

Continue along the route past the pretty painted houses with their attractive flower displays

The walk takes us through towards the harbour, passing the poignant Pittenweem Fishermen's Memorial. The memorial is dedicated to those who have lost their lives at sea in the pursuit of making a living from the waters.

You'll also pass Nicholson's Sweets & Ice Cream Shop which is a favourite stop off for us. Reasonably priced and high quality.

Walk through the harbour which is busy first thing in the morning, as the catches are landed. The large grey building on the far side is the 17th/18th century Granary, now the harbour master's office. There are public toilets located there.

At the far end of the harbour is the striking 17th century Gyles House. The blue plaque on the building states that the house was built for Captain James Cook but it's a different Captain Cook from the famous 18th century English explorer.

It's worth continuing on to the right of the house, along the harbour wall and past the little lighthouse. You'll get great views of the harbour and back to the houses along the shore, as well as a better view across towards the Isle of May.

Jasper chilling out on the harbour wall with the Isle of May in the distance

Return to the road and leave the harbour, turning right up the hill to follow Abbey Wall Road. At the top of the hill where the road bends left, take the coastal path straight ahead.

Follow the path past the playground and continue on at the back of the houses and out along the coast

View towards Anstruther Golf Course from the coastal path

Once we are beyond the houses, the path runs along the edge of a sea of barley. Back on the lead for Jasper here just in case he decides to try to run through it!

The path soon descends sharply and it's best to use a lead here, as a bit further down there are some drops off to the side

Watch out for golfers as you approach the golf course. We are turning to the right here and going down to the water.

Another opportunity for Jasper and Tommy to splash around before we head back to the town

We then retrace our footsteps back along the coast and down the hill to the harbour. As we go through the harbour keep your eyes peeled for the gap between the houses on the right and turn up Cove Wynd.

Cove Wynd is particularly attractive and it's also where you will find St Fillan's Cave, with its distinctive Celtic cross gate

According to legend, St Fillan was a 7th century Irish missionary who lived in this natural underground cave while trying to convert the local Picts to Christianity. Pittenweem gets its name from the cave as it means "place of the cave" in Gaelic. If the cave is locked up, you can obtain the key from the Cocoa Tree Cafe in return for a small donation to the local church. We will be passing the Cocoa Tree later on.

Looking back down Cove Wynd

At the top of Cove Wynd, carry straight on passing the impressive medieval church and adjoining 16th century tolbooth tower with its Mercat (Market) Cross on your right.

Looking back towards the Pittenweem Parish Church and tolbooth tower

Follow the road around to the right, then take the first left up Lady Wynd

At the top of Lady Wynd, turn left along James Street

A little way down the road, you'll pass The Pop In, which is a treasure trove of antiques, collectibles, art etc. It's dog friendly too, though Jasper is a little bit too high energy to take in to an antiques shop!

Looking back to The Pop In
 
Head left past The Pop In and down Backgate. When you reach the Scout Hall, turn left and follow Routine Row around to the left.

At the end of Routine Row, turn right back down Kirkgate to retrace our footsteps back past the church. Follow the road around to the right and into the High Street.

Pittenweem High Street and the ever popular Pittenweem Fish Bar

You will pass one of our favourite fish and chip shops on the right, Pittenweem Fish Bar. It's not as popular as the award winning Anstruther Fish Bar in the next village up the coast but in my opinion Pittenweem's chippie is just as good quality. It's more of a traditional chip shop with a less extensive menu than Anstruther's but it's a lot cheaper and wait times are generally a lot shorter. You may still have to wait half hour or so at busy times but at Anstruther the wait can sometimes be over an hour. Be aware that it is take away only and they only accept cash. When we're in this area we'll sometimes go to Anstruther if we fancy their lovely lemon sole but for a nice thick haddock, it's Pittenweem every time!

A bit further along on the right, you will find a couple of good dog friendly cafes: The Pittenweem Chocolate Company & Cocoa Tree Café and The Clock Tower Café. As it's name implies the first café is also a chocolate shop and they sell a lovely range of their own hand made chocolates.

As you continue down the high street, you'll pass a number of wynds on the left hand side that are worth taking a detour to explore. They offer views over the town and out across the Firth of Forth and contain many pretty painted properties and flower displays.

A little bit further down from the cafés, keep an eye out for the 16th century building "Kellie Lodging" on the right hand side with its distinctive turret. The building is the former home to the Earls of Kelly.

Continue to follow the High Street all the way down until it becomes West Braes and heads back towards the car park. Turn left to continue on West Braes back to where we started our walk.

On return to the car park, as we look back across at the town we can see that the tide has now gone out

Route overview with surrounding area for context (click/tap to enlarge image)

Route detail - section 1 of 3

Route detail - section 2 of 3

Route detail - section 3 of 3

Link to start location on Google Maps


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